Bar School: Whiskey

After tackling gin, the next obvious spirit for me to learn a bit more about was whiskey. I like whiskey and all its varieties quite a bit, but until now I didn’t really have a good handle on the different types. What’s the difference between bourbon, rye, scotch, and whiskey? What does it mean to have a wheated or high-rye bourbon? What’s the deal with single malt vs. blended scotch? So I did a little research. Here is what I’ve learned so far.

Whiskey (spelled whisky in some countries), is a distilled alcohol made from fermented grain mash and then aged. Grains used include rye, wheat, corn, and barley. Bourbon, rye, and scotch are all types of whiskey that are made in specific places from specific ingredients.

Bourbon whiskey must be made in the United States from at least 51% corn (most are 60-70%), stored in charred oak barrels, entered into the barrel at no more than 125 proof*, distilled to no more than 160 proof, bottled at no less than 80 proof, and have no added flavoring or coloring. Kentucky is the largest producer of bourbon, and the spirit was probably named after Bourbon County. Bourbon is sweeter and more full-bodied than other whiskeys.

The proportions of different grains that make up the mash (the “mash bill”) have a big impact on the flavor of a bourbon. Rye is usually the secondary grain, and barley commonly makes up the rest. Most bourbons are 8-10% rye, but others have a much higher percentage. These high-rye bourbons will inch closer to rye whiskey in flavor, with fruitier and spicier notes. Some common varieties are Four Roses Single Barrel, Bulleit, and Basil Hayden.

Wheated bourbons, on the other hand, replace rye entirely with wheat. This produces a softer flavor. Maker’s Mark is a wheated bourbon, as is the legendary Pappy Van Winkle Family Reserve.

I just learned that there are also high-corn bourbons, inching above the 70% mark. This makes them sweeter, which is something I’d like to try. Old Charter is one example, with over 80% corn.

I’ve got a few friends who are really into bourbon, and two bottles they consistently recommend are Woodford Reserve and Angel’s Envy. Both are good options if you’d like something to sip on.

While we’re on bourbon: Tennessee whiskey such as Jack Daniels is actually bourbon, but for whatever reason the Tennessee distilleries resist that label. Most Tennessee whiskey is distinguished by the use of a charcoal filter.

Rye whiskey has the same requirements as bourbon whiskey, but it must be at least 51% rye. Corn is usually the secondary grain, with barley making up the rest. This gives rye a fruitier, spicier flavor than bourbon. Cocktails made with rye will be less sweet than those made with bourbon. Note that Canadian whiskeys are sometimes called rye whiskeys, but they are not held to the same standards as US rye and may not contain rye at all.

My go-to rye is Old Overholt because it’s impossible to beat for the price (under $20). I recently got a bottle of Rittenhouse, which is stronger than most rye at 100 proof, and honestly didn’t like it; I found it to have a menthol flavor that was overpowering. But a lot of folks recommend it, and to each his own.

Malt whiskey uses primarily malted grains in its production. Malting is the process of allowing the grains to germinate and then drying them. Malted barley is the most common type, and is included in small percentages in most bourbon and rye as well; since it’s not the primary grain, these are still considered grain whiskeys.

Scotch whiskey is malt whiskey made in Scotland from malted barley and aged in oak barrels for at least three years. “Single malt” scotch is made from only water and malted barley at a single distillery, whereas blended scotch whiskey contains both malt whiskey and grain whiskey. Scotches can taste very different from one another, but most are smoother than other whiskeys and many have a smoky, peaty flavor.

Irish whiskey is whiskey produced in Ireland. The terminology used to describe it (single malt, blended, etc.) follows that of Scotch. While there are a lot of characteristics shared by most Irish whiskey, such as using malted grains and triple-distilling, as far as I know none of these are universal and they certainly aren’t required. The most popular varieties are blended whiskeys, including Jameson and Bushmill’s.

As you can see, some of these categories are not mutually exclusive, and it can get a little complicated. I’m still not 100% clear on a few aspects! If you’re interested in getting more into whiskey, the best thing to do is taste a lot of different types and figure out what you like. I haven’t tasted nearly enough whiskey to be preaching about what’s good, but now I’ll know what to notice when I find a bottle I like, and what to look for when I want to try something new.

*While we’re on the basics, a bit of terminology when it comes to alcohol content: alcohol proof is equal to double the alcohol by volume percentage (ABV). So a spirit that is 40% ABV is 80 proof. This terminology goes way back to 18th century Britain, and we’ll have to talk about it another time.

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